Different types of Hanfu existed for various occasions, from everyday wear to special ceremonies. Princesses Consort on their marriage to the Crown Prince and on major ceremonies (Korean: 대례복; Hanja: 大禮服; RR: daeryebok). Queens Consort on their coronation ceremony and on major ceremonies (Korean: 대례복; Hanja: 大禮服; RR: daeryebok). The jeokgwan originated from the bonggwan (Korean: 봉관; Hanja: 鳳冠) which was worn from by the Chinese empresses. It was worn together with jeokgwan (Korean: 적관; Hanja: 翟冠) in the late Goryeo and early Joseon, hapi (Korean: 하피; Hanja: 霞帔), pyeseul (Korean: 폐슬; Hanja: 蔽膝). According to the Annals of Joseon, from 1403 to the first half of the 17th century the Ming dynasty sent a letter, which confers the queen with a title along with the following items: jeokgwan, a vest called baeja (Korean: 배자; Hanja: 褙子), and a hapi. In the Ming dynasty, there are however different kinds of phoenix crowns depending on the ranks of its wearer: the one for the empresses is decorated with 9 dragons and 4 phoenixes, and the ones for the imperial concubines had 9 multicoloured pheasants and 4 phoenixes, and the other for the titled women was called a coloured coronet, which was not decorated with dragons or phoenixes but with pearls, feathers of wild fowls and flower hairpins.
The diyi has been worn by empresses and other royal noblewomen (differs according to different dynasties) since the Zhou dynasty. An example of the jeokui worn by the Korean empresses in Joseon can be seen in the Cultural Heritage Administration website. The jeokui was a ceremonial robe which was worn by the Joseon queens on the most formal occasions. The robe is made of dark material with edges to preserve ancient style. For the moment, there isn’t one universal Hanfu style that everyone can agree on, and there may never be one. Their daopao is cross-collared at the front, and the sleeves are so long that only the fingers can escape from the sleeves. The xiaolunhua (小輪花) motif are known as ihwa motif in Korea. By the Korea Empire, the ihwa motif was revised and became one of the primary emblem of the Korean empire. The Korean ihwa motif were likely designed in 1750 when Joseon established their own jeokui system, song dynasty hanfu men and may have used The Collected Statutes of the Ming Dynasty (大明會典) as reference. In the Korea Empire, the blue jeokui was established for the Korea Empress.
The huiyi in Sui and Tang dynasties was also blue in colour. In the Records of Chariots and Horses and Clothes written in the Yuan dynasty, the Song dynasty huiyi is described as being dark blue in colour and there are 12 lines of di birds which stand together in pair. From the several court portrait paintings of the Song dynasty, it is found that the huiyi was cross-collar closing to the right, with large and wide sleeves, and with cloud and dragons patterns ornamenting the collar, sleeves and placket, with a belt worn around the waist; and while all the huiyi were depicted as being deep blue in colour, they differed in shades of dark blue showing variation. The wide cuff sleeves are round-shaped to symbolize the sky and the Confucian’s scholars’ deep knowledge and integration while the right-angled collar is square shaped to represents the earth warning Confucians that they should have integrity and kindness; together, the sleeves and the right-angled collar represents space as the circle and the square of the world. Di bird patterns can decorate the black, red collar edge in 3 lines. There is also the Tangzhuang, a mandarin suit or rather a jacket for men with a mao collar and Brandenburg buttons.
There is a bixi (a knee covering) which hangs in the central region of the front skirt; the colour of bixi has the same colour as the bottom of the lower skirt. According to the Zhou dynasty rites, there were two types of black and blue clothing; however, ming dynasty hanfu there is currently no proof that the huiyi in the Zhou dynasty was black in colour. The socks are dark blue in colour; the shoes are also dark blue but decorated with gold ornaments. They are not only a fashion statement but also a cultural expression, showcasing AliExpress’s commitment to delivering a diverse range of products. Many Hanfu followers like the clothes for the fashion statement, but some, Li included, say its significance is greater. Be sure to do this carefully, especially if working with delicate fabrics like silk. The skirt had spaced coloured stripes and was tied with a white silk band at the waist.
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