Furthermore, with the consent of the Qing government, traditional Ming dynasty Hanfu robes given by the Ming Emperors to the Chinese noble Dukes Yansheng descended from Confucius were preserved in the Confucius Mansion alongside robes from the Qing emperors. During the early Qing dynasty, the Qing court issued the Tifayifu policies on the Han Chinese population, which led to the disappearance of most Hanfu. 40 It also lead to the execution of Liu Zhenyu during the Qianlong era for urging the clothing to be changed to what is presumed to Ming-style fashion; however, during this period, only the scholar-official elite were required to wear Manchu style and not the entire male population, so the great majority of men were allowed to dressed in Ming-style fashion. The Han Chinese women carefully maintained their pure Han Chinese ethnicity and did not wear Manchu clothing. The standing-up collar and diagonal right closure are two features inspired by Chinese and Manchu clothing.
It was therefore a taboo in Chinese clothing culture for a living person to wear clothing with a zuoren closure. However, the early Qing court did not allow Han Chinese men to wear all forms of Manchu items as they prohibited Chinese men from wearing certain specific Manchu items, such as clothing made of fur. Women who were given the rank of 8th and 9th had to wear a xiapei which was embroidered with branch pattern. Zhou Fang, cheongsam male who was a very influential painter in the middle Tang dynasty. Fang, Alex Chengyu (2016). The Language and Iconography of Chinese Charms: Deciphering a Past Belief System. Zhu, Ruixin; Bangwei Zhang; Fusheng Liu; Chongbang Cai; Zengyu Wang (2016). A social history of middle-period China : the Song, Liao, Western Xia and Jin dynasties (Updated ed.). The shuitianyi is a popular, but rare fashion phenomenon, which appeared in the middle and the late Ming dynasty and remained popular in the Qing dynasty.
The shuitianyi may have originally originated from poor people, who would use whatever leftover clothing they would have at hand for saving purposes, and was initially only popular among poor women. However, from the middle of the 18th century, the women dress code were being infringed as it is recorded that the Qianlong Emperor stated that “there were girls who emulated Han Chinese clothing and jewelry. This is truly not the Manchu custom” when he inspected the marriage draft. Hong Taiji was again cited by the Qianlong Emperor when urging his descendants to maintain the wearing of Manchu dress. The term tongpao is literally translated as “wearing the same style of robe” and is also a pun of tongbao (同胞) meaning “fellow compatriots”. Translated by Alfred Huang (10th ed.). Majewicz, Alfred F., ed. The late Qing ao also had different types of opening (i.e. central front opening, slant opening), could have either narrow or wide sleeves and could have a mandarin collar. Noble lady wearing a round-collared jacket as upper garment and a skirt as lower garment (front) Lady-in-waiting wearing a short-sleeved round collar jacket with a skirt (left), Ming dynasty.
Both the yuanlingpao and yuanlingshan of this period had a long, straight back and front with a border at the collar. The Round collar robe, also called yuanlingpao (Chinese: 圆领袍; Chinese: 圓領袍; pinyin: yuánlǐngpáo; lit. Chinese: 長袍; pinyin: chángpáo; lit. The sleeves of the yuanlingshan are mostly in a style called pipaxiu (Chinese: 琵琶袖; pinyin: pípáxiù; lit. Initially the Buddhist monks wore the pianshan as an upper garment along with a Chinese skirt called qun (Chinese: 裙; pinyin: qún; lit. Therefore, it is known that the left part of the pianshan was actually just the inner robe, while the right part is to cover the shoulder. The zhiduo was, however, spared from this policy as it was part of the ten exceptions. It can be seen as an attempt to redeem an important part of Han culture, to restore the classical norms of beauty prevailing in earlier times. Many costumes can be used with daxiushan, which is commonly seen with narrow sleeves, straight sleeves and wide sleeves blouse (ru). Han dynasty tongtianguan seen on the Wu Family Shrines stone-relief (worn by King Xuan of Qi). With time, Han Chinese men eventually adopted Manchu-style clothing, such as changshan and magua, and by the late Qing, officials, scholars, graduation hanfu and many commoners wore Manchu-style clothing.
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